Early morning light gave a different perspective on the upper trail; slightly less water cascading down. Apparently 16x the normal flow (1.5 million litres/sec) closed the park last week, destroying bridges and walkways, dropping to 5x today. We’ve been lucky as expected rain in Brazil will likely again close the park. Only the last section just before it joins the paraná (leading to the Rio de La plata) flows in Argentina.
Iguazú in Guaraní meaning “great water“ is the second national Argentine park created in 1934 receiving over 1.5+ visitors a year (Argentine & gringos). Earlier the old hotel welcomed visitors, falling into disrepair more recently it’s used for park rangers and conferences; the light house actually a water tower. We luckily stayed in its modern utilitarian replacement (built by the dictatorship for diplomats). I’m a fan of the infinity pool with a view!
Some falls have names two sisters, Bernabe Mendez (after a park ranger shot by poachers in ‘68 defending the park) or the last one, el Diablo, visible only from Brazil.
Legend says a god planned to marry Naipía a beautiful woman who fled in a canoe with her mortal lover Tarobá. In a rage, the deity sliced the river, creating the two level waterfalls and condemning the lovers to an eternal fall.
Sadly the impressive long upper boardwalk was washed away a few weeks ago, just after being renovated after last years washout! So against the stream of early visitors, we took the empty train back to the entrance; breeze welcome!
Spanish tested as we read about the animals, history; misiones region, so named from the many jesuit missions rediscovering the falls "introducing” Catholicism to the indigenous peoples, until expelled by the Spanish in 1768. Not until the early 1900s would the tourist potential be explored, and the area preserved; Argentina's number one attraction.
Joining the throng we walked the lower trail again. Monkeys and Coatis’s amusing antics helping regulate the busy paths and streaming visitors. It was hot.
Back at the hotel the busy pool beckoned, although the water, already warm! Respite in preparation for our Argentine river adventure!
Expecting to get wet we donned shorts and water shoes, before boarding the hot open air four-wheel drive truck to the wharf; interrupted by toucan flying over, coloured beak visible to all. A la Disney rides, shuffling down endless steps, handed life jackets, eschewing dry bags, we were herded onto the dinghy!
River still in spate, go pro expert hyping the crowd, the skilled captain bounced us to the falls; great river side perspective, the sheer volume and force. Next we veered right up close, for the photo op, the mist tantalisingly adding atmosphere; not quite so genteel!
Next he drove right at the falls, ramming the engines full tilt against the flow, either side of the island (actually only a promentary) multiple times. Pretty awesome, scary under the force edges, clinging on; bounced around; absolutely drenched; eyes shut, everyone whopping; total total white out! “Otro vez! Otro vez!”
Over 30’C heat; soggy attire welcome returning back. Driver narrowly avoiding the gazillion tegu luzards, labouring slowly scampering away! Quite a different falls experience; underwater camera in action!
Another swim, more monkey business followed by dinner on the patio; disappointing and expensive (especially as we repeat ordered receiving a poor imitation of the original, I actually complained) The hotel whilst luxurious and lovely, really was making the most of its monopoly!
Definitely a day of adventure!
Sunrise
Early morning park
Animals
(capuchin monkey; plush crested jay; thinks it's black and white tegu lizard)
The park train ride & information
Cataract Argentine Iguazú river adventure
Pool side fellow guest
Monkey business and view at dinner
We stayed at Gran Melia, Iguazú National Park, Argentina
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