Up with the stars way before dawn we boarded the boat, still a warm 26’C! Total darkness; our guide spotting for the captain. Slowly the sky turned pink, dawning on reaching Puerto Maldonado’s suspension bridge. Passing the confluence with the Tambopata river, our destination still on Rio Madre de Dios river, a muddy mineral and salt laden bank just another 15minutes further along. (Only another 500miles and we’d be in Cuzco! No need for our flight vía Lima)
Just as we breached a sand bank, 50+ squawking raucously parrots, parakeets and macaws swooped down feeding off the bank. Literally eating the mud! Spooked by a hawk, they flew off to the canopy tops. The daring returning in groups, only to swiftly fly off in unison. Murmuring and feeding; squawking, chirping loudly, really rowdy. The minerals essential to their diet, appear to be only in the correct ratios on this bank; they come often always first thing. Using binoculars we watched the spectacle whilst our guide captured moments on our iPhones through his telescope. Amazing unique Amazonian experience.
Show over we had coffee and breakfast as the day warmed on the boat. Such a treat. Returning, with a by now much needed breeze, somehow our captain spotted a sloth up in the canopy. Docking on the rivers edge we all had the chance to view via telescopic enhanced iPhone or with binoculars. Finally noticing the hawk sharing his branch he slowly moved lower hanging upside down apparently in prayer!
We have been lucky, blessed with some rare sightings of a sloth, a night monkey, an American Pygmy kingfisher, and parrots, macaws & parakeets eating mineral laden clay; all in their natural rainforest habitat.
Back at the lodge we hastily closed our bags (shower time stolen by sloth sightings) ready for the transfer back to Puerto Maldonado Aeropuerto. I pity our seat mates! Essence of citronella and Eau de deet, again! Thankfully our checkin suitcases miraculously found their way.
Bags checked to Cuzco via Lima and 2 boarding passes assigned, we waited in a, somewhat struggling, air conditioned building. 34’C. A mix of high tech (scanners) and low tech (blue card discs) later we boarded the coolish plane. Apparently the day we arrived a lightning strike took down air traffic control! Let’s hope it’s back in order.
Much confusion at Lima; no transit signs, to bag collect or not? Praying our cases are checked through, we rushed ahead, braved the chaotic security checking melee leaving just enough time for a swift coffee and the bathroom.
Unprepared for the exit scrum from our packed flight, how the people beside me managed to exit first I don’t know. No line at the ladies, suitcases ready for collection, our transfer awaiting us; all very efficient. Our hotel appears to be part of an old Inca street coupled with a Spanish villa, it’s really atmospheric. Turns out we were rushed so all Peru could watch the qualifiers against Chile. (Sadly they lost two nil)
Showered, bags sorted/exploded time for food. Surely the shortest route to a restaurant, literally next door to a highly recommended vegan restaurant. Great meal, good job as for once I out ate Simon!
Sunrise on Madre De Dios
(Moon; guide spotting; sun starting to rise; us passengers on the boat & the captain)
(Sunrise; Puerto Maldonado bridge & dock)
(Sunrise with guide; sun; fisherman hanging his net)
Clay breakfasting macaws, parrots & parakeets plus troublesome hawk!
(Cliff/nutritious mud bank; macaws, parrots, parakeets; spooked Macaws in tree & leaving; Hawk making them nervous!)
(Parrots & parakeets eating clay; murmeration when spooked!)
(Sloth before and after he moved after also being spooked by a hawk!)
(Clay bank; Sloth & hawk in tree somewhere!)
Journey to Cuzco
(Last rest in hammock; butterflies along Rio Madre De Dios; boat transfer; plane arrival; jungle with Madre De Dios and deforestation)
Cuzco
(Pacha Cuteq famous Incan Leader; Hotel reception traditional Incan wall & window; old cobbled street; Peruvian vegan delights Tacu Tacu and Torte de Zanahoria (banned from cheese, salad, tap water, a extremely delicious dinner))
Video to follow if technology back home allows.
We stayed at Antigua Casona San Blas in Cuzco’s oldest district.
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