The Inca trail was amazing, strenuous, stunning, scenic, steep and treacherous when wet! Fortunately the altitude didn’t really affect us, just harder to breathe sometimes well always whilst climbing at altitude! However Simon’s knees weren’t so happy with the descent! So atmospheric to be treading in the footsteps of the Inca and his Coya!
Correction from earlier: the various Inca trails were well travelled, well maintained stone paths crisscrossing their Andean Empire. Used by priests, slaves, warriors, traders, travellers and the Inca and his retinue. (Inca refers to the chief/king, the people are Quechuan; descendants still speak Quechua today.) There is archeological evidence of resting Inns “Tambo”s and trading posts; non-Andean seeds & bones from Amazonian and coastal produce. The trail a cobbled foot high-way, as horses were introduced by the Spanish.
Ranging from 50-70% restored at the start to completely original as we descended the last 5-10km into Machu Picchu, the cobbled footpath went over dead woman’s pass Abra Warmihuañusca (4,200m) into the cloud forest jungle, rising across the saddle at Abra Runkurakay (3,970m l) giving the first glimpse of the abandoned Incan City. Lots of steps, boulder strewn, hewn out of rock, very steep, fortunately wider than the coastal path last year. The hedonistic freedom of the last century replaced by heavy regulation; 500 people per day 200 tourists and 300 guides with porters; quite rightly the government now preserving their Incan heritage. Porters are supposed to be limited to 25kg and a basic pay, we saw evidence of possible exploitation; tips must help. They are amazing plodding up and running down the treacherous paths « los gringos” are finding challenging. The record time, for the 26ish mile complete trek, a pack free porter, under the time it took me to run the London and Paris marathons in the spring! Sobering.
Our group 5 plus guide, needed 10 porters plus chef and under cook! Incredible operation to erect dining tent, cook a 3 course lunch from gas bottles lugged along the trail and then repeat for dinner providing sleeping tents and the all important portable loo! (An adult version of the foldaway potty I used with our kids!)
The Incas ruled from 13th century, heyday was 1438-71 with the 9th Inca Pachacuti, who expanded the empire conquering the whole Andean range, modern day Ecuador, Columbia Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Great architects, innovative agriculturalists, managers & organisers, traders using a bartering system, with quipu knotted strings for record keeping this imperial nation ruled or imposed their domination over their feudal empire; no wheels, no writing, taxes paid in labour! All this open to interpretation of an oral people, with any records coming from the Spanish conquistadors!
Civil war erupted between Huáscar (descendant) from Cusco and his half brother Atahualpa (bastard) from Quito around 1530s. Despite victory Atahualpa was killed by the Spanish conquistadors led by Pizarro 1533. The civil war, extensive trail network coupled with the Spanish horses thought to be their downfall. (One theory; they thought the strange blue eyed Spaniards astride horses were gods). His brother Mano was installed by the Spanish as Inca, fed up he valiantly fought back retreating to the Amazon. During this time it’s thought he ordered Machu Picchu to be abandoned and the trail obscured!
The empire ended in 1572 with the capture and execution of his son. The Spanish rule, enforced labour in the mines and small pox largely destroyed their way of life; the Quechuan stubbornly remain blending Catholicism with Andean ancient beliefs and ways!
The agricultural terraces we passed were grounded with hard core/gravel then built up with sand topped with hard packed earth, enough for buttressing, the wider agricultural ones had an additional layer of top-soil. You could see the stepping stones for access; a bit steep for me.
Along the way we also visited many other l Incan sites culminating in the abandoned Machu Picchu. Discovered accidental by xxx Bingham he was looking for el Dorado! Locals took him to the jungle ridden ruins inhabited by two families. The son xxxx showed him the ruins of the sun temple! During the xxx an archeological dream, they uncovered the city. We visited the Inca’s palace with Inca’s bedroom plus adjoining room for concubines concubines, temples to the sun, water, condor and Pachama, the agricultural terraces, grain stores, university with its residential areas, experimental area and central square. It’s believed the city is unfinished, with surrounding hills holding many tambos, agricultural terraces, fortifications and outlying communities used to supply the city. We visited a few en route. The guide was just amazing spinning the yarn to really bring the ruins to life, along with encouraging us to take a gazillion photos. It wasn’t hard to oblige!
Corrections welcome!
We have so many photos plus some still to come taken by our fellow hikers! I did however keep a daily blog, in the subsequent posts with photos to follow over time!
(The trail; the start; the porters & chef; day2; day3; day4; at Machu Picchu)
(From sun gate; from classic overlook; from terraces)
(Machu Picchu)
We camped with Enigma:
Day 1, 6 miles , Campsite: Wayllabamba, altitude: 3,000 m: Andes Peru
Day 2, 7 miles, Campsite: Pacaymayo, altitude: 3,600 m: Andes Peru
Day 3, 10 miles, Campsite: Winay Wayna, altitude: 2,700 m: Andes
Day 4, 3 miles to Machu Picchu
Glorious bed & hot shower at Antigua Casona San Blas in Cuzco’s oldest district again.
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