As the sun rose, duffles deposited, strange porridge consumed, packs donned we were off. The rain over; the guide said the fire was out, but the trail as closed for maintenance.!Supposedly an easier longer day with 4 Incan sites another pass and a promised view of the dead woman’s pass; Simon would definitely did not agree!
Continuing up through lush cloud forest we reached the first Incan site Runkurakay, (3,970m) a round structure; our guide sided with the view it was a tambo or travellers resting place rather than a fort. Views of the dead woman’s pass over the climb continued.
Easier walking in the early morning light, we enjoyed the views, differing trees, orchids, accompanied by bird song. Suddenly our respite over, the sun strengthened, the path steepened; hard again. Gallantly we opted to park packs trail side and shinny up the steep cliff to visit Sayacmarca (3,624m). Archeologists reckon this was a fortified trading post, Incan trails from the Amazon and coast meeting with the routes from Cusco and Machu Picchu; evidence from the excavated grains, and bones. A complex semicircular construction, of enclosures at different levels, narrow streets, liturgical fountains, patios and irrigation canals with spectacular views from which we narrowly avoided eviction as our guide stopped a Canadian from spending a penny or rather Sol; now strictly forbidden.
Soggy, in my case (who stupidly parks their pack under a mountain drip!), packs retrieved we headed for a campsite and a snack/loo break.
Our guide then photographed us as we negotiated a dark Incan mountain tunnel leading up to the Phuyupatamarca (3,700m) pass(translated meaning cloud city), our first glimpse of Machu Picchu mountain from the back, well a cloud covered blob and lunch. It was cloudy! Timed to perfection all accommodated in the dinning tent, just as the heavens opened! We did however manage to see the mountain and eat lunch in comfort!
It had to be done, clad in multi coloured rain ponchos we began the treacherous rainy descent down towards Wiñaywayna camp; where everyone has to end their trek. Mutterings of insanity as we picked our footings following our guide, moving aside for porters galloping past. He was gifted at steady pace setting, perhaps as he’d been a porter whilst at university, or just his years of experience, regaling us with stories from the trail, recent and Incan.
The descent and final two complexes blurred! Lots of steep downward steps, Incan complexes, agricultural terraces with views over the Urubamba River valley and railway. We even saw the hydro electric plant. The final section right through the famous Wiñaywayna terraces very challenging in the weather. I will be forever grateful for the guide’s assistance in helping Simon down, his injured ankle and aged knees having a moment.
Tired we finally found our spot numero dos perched perilously on the cliff; even harder to traverse the even narrower ledge whilst entering our tent. Thankfully, now dry, it was a slightly warmer evening. Fading light meant early dinner, congratulatory speech and thanks (tip) to the cook and chef; how he conjoured up a orange and chocolate decorated cake in a tent I will never know!
Torches out. 3am wake up call! No time for blog, repacking or anything!
… except multiple unsuccessful smelly perilous décents to the lower level toilet tent; my enthusiasm waning, my body uncooperative!
Apologies, photos to follow.
Watch this space!
We camped with Enigma:
Day 3, 10 miles, Campsite: Winay Wayna, altitude: 2,700 m: Andes
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