3am finds us scrabbling in the dark, cramming belongings into bags, negotiating a death defying nip to loo, readying our tent for bag drop at 4:10pm. Yep I was late! Shorter than expected, as the light dawned, the line snaked through the check point onto the original Incan trail.
Simon our leader, we romped an undulating miraculously level path through the cloud forest with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains to the Gringo Killer! Just 50 extremely steep vertical steps to the sun gate Intipunku. Obligatory photos taken we descended down to enter through the terraces to take the famous shots over looking the city. Just stunning; so unique, encircled by cloud forest covered peaks. It must have been an amazing place to live! Construction ordered by Inca Patchacuti, completed 60 years later, the thousand or so residents enjoyed only 30years before the Spanish!
Obviously as the undergrowth reclaimed the city much was eroded, largely intact the stone structures stunning in the sunlight. Our guide bringing the weather with his hotline to Pachamama, beautiful, warm morning light.
Descending to the entrance, bag check, fantastic, just so welcome, luxurious, fragrant, modern toilet and passport control over, we were in. Our guide spent 2hrs bringing the site to life, describing the archeologists view of the buildings function and design. I must admit, finally sitting pack free in the morning sun in the agricultural terraces, it was hard to stop my eyelids drooping despite my keen interest!
Visiting the exquisite stone work (our guides words) on the sun temple, with windows to receive the morning light at the solstices our guide explained their beliefs in reincarnation and worship of the gods of water (life), Pachamama (earth) and the condor (companion for the spirits journey skyward); their symbols of condor, puma and snake; sky, earth and underworld. The palace including Incas rooms and harem, was next. Cobbled streets led to the other side of the city.
We saw frisky llamas in the square in-front of the university with their experimental agricultural terraces and grain stores. Quite rightly she was having nothing of it! It was all so interesting. We saw how they used round posts to tie the roof rafters, with windows for ventilation or niches for idols or storage. It must have been amazing bedecked with frescos, colourful painted carvings with icon filled niched and gold plated walls. Our guide reckoned lower down there were more vegetation covered ruins; the buildings for those supporting the above cities functions.
Parched I was sad, but glad our time was up. Reclaiming packs, we queued for the bus down to Aguas Calientes. Fridge magnet secured we had a lovely farewell group lunch before being escorted to the station with our reclaimed duffles.
A lovely scenic train ride ensued complete with Peruvian dancers and obligatory alpaca wool products fashion show. Interesting to see the poor hikers traversing the tracks after the closure, and the guy nipping off the train as it slowed to change the points on the single line railway. It was blissfully easy stepping off the train outside our previous hotel lobby door to reclaim our cases and visit the facilities. Accepting gratefully the assistance of our driver we negotiated the hullabaloo at Ollantaytambo station to find the car. He drove us back following the train tracks and river to Cusco and our previous hotel; confusingly a different room. The outskirts of Cusco in stark contrast to the city centre. So much poverty, so much inequality; humbling.
A lovely hot shower; it just couldn’t possibly be me who stayed under too long flooding the bathroom! Celebratory glass of wine and wonderful salad over my eyes could no longer stay open. Oh what a shame packing would just have to wait!
Apologies, photos to follow.
Watch this space!
We camped with Enigma:
Day 4, 3 miles, Glorious bed & hot shower at Antigua Casona San Blas in Cuzco’s oldest district again.
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