An exploding coffee machine hastened our bid for breakfast. Expecting a buffet we were created with eerie silence! Just as I started to fill my water bottle, up popped the camarero. Breakfast was served in style, just for us!
"How did we feel today? How was TelefériQo? Any sickness?" our guide asked as we boarded the transport van. OK we said. "We will see how far we get weather permitting" the verdict.
We drove out of Quito along the Avenue of the Volcanoes, 8 or 9 of the 17 that surround Quito. The city gave way to countryside, a patchwork of farms and fields complete with sheep and cows, very reminiscent of rural England; with differing farm buildings. Stopping to climb the view point at the services our best efforts failed at capturing the panarama. It was amazing to see the volcanoes so clearly; many are dormant or extinct, but not all!
Next stop was Cotopaxi National park where we needed to be registered to use the trail; and spend a penny or rather 50cents as Ecuador uses US dollars. Our transfer would drive us most of the way, however we would hike the last section around an elevation of 200m. Cotopaxi's last major eruption was in 1877, however in 2016 and Oct 2022 there were ash plumes. We could see the dark ash highlights on the snow as the clouds swirled around the summit. The weather was favourable.
A free massage later (unpaved road) we arrived at a Laguna Limpiopungo, a lake created seasonally by the runoff from the cratered volcano opposite. Failing at bird spotting we opted for local flora instead.
Back on the rough rather steep track we donned our winter gear (not quite enough layers in my case) and unearthed the dried coka leaves. "How are you feeling?", as the altitude slowly climbed. Excited? Nervous?
On arrival, it was much colder and quite windy. So of course I needed the loo again, yep, I went on the volcano's slopeside; another unique experience!
The adventure began. It wasn't really hard walking, or harder to breath, but you could feel your heart pumping. Up the zigzag path we were encouraged to take our time, stop for a breather, take photos, drink and take coka twice. We chewed the dried leaves spitting them out, well I ended up consuming most of mine. Like dried bay leaf! Yucky. They must have worked; I felt great, euphoric! Ooh and I shared our ginger Ecuadorean chocolate. Slowly our elevation rose. The views were spectacular down, across the slopes as well as up towards the summit. Eerie, when I lost sight of everyone!
Eventually we reached our destination, the Refusio José Rivas at 4864m (the crater is higher at 5897m). It was an extraordinary being at such a high altitude. Just amazing. It felt like we were in a ski lodge inside as we sipped our welcome hot chocolate. Flags adorned the walls but no Union Jack!
The clouds ominous we descended slowly carefully down the shaley zigzag path. It's always harder going down! It was an amazing experience.
Back at our transport, losing a few layers we drove towards the restaurant in a lovely BnB style hotel just outside the park. Enjoying an Ecuadorean meal of potato soup local trout/aubergine and local cake, as the volcano slowly vanished behind clouds.
Returning the unpaved road, became cobbled as we passed through farm land, a village, and the local town before joining the Andean trans American highway (starts in Alaska). The buildings so diverse, from branches over plastic, through shacks, breeze block, half built floors to huge haciendas. Apparently people build a floor and leave the ties in the roof for their children to earn enough to extend up! The wealth inequity was obvious.
It really was extraordinary. I think I was high on altitude ( and coka I expect!) What does altitude sickness feel like, I'm still not sure I know!
Avenue of Volcanos
(Volcanoes overlooking Quito suburbs; Avenue of volcanoes; another section of avenue of volcanoes; first view of Cotopaxi!)
Cotopaxi National park:
Laguna Limpiopungo
(Tree plantation on park approach; park sign; lake and volcano; lake; selfie with our guide; Cotopaxi opposite)
Local flora
The route
(Ok so we'd made a few zigs before I remembered to turn tracking on!)
The ascent
(the trail; 2nd highest active volcano 5897m; view inc carpark; coka stop; looking down; nearly there; dried coka leaves)
We made it to Refusio José Rivas at 4864m
(José Rivas refuge; Cotopaxi volcano peak, ice with volcanic ash currently spewing; outside the refuge; by the refuge sign; about to leave; we made it!)
Late lunch at a restaurant just outside the national park in the surrounding farm land.
(The restaurant; restaurant gardens where's the volcano gone!)
We stayed at Mamma Cuchara in Quito Ecuador
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