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  • Writer's picturePaula Cooper

22 Sept 2022 Madrid: Pleasant Palatial Private

I was unsure when Madrid rose, consequently I left it a bit late for an early morning run. Not surprisingly I got lost! Dr Google helped me navigate the busy sunny streets to Retiro park where I found the fallen angel fountain! Situated 666m above sea level the famous fountain has connotations of the devil. Surrounded by fellow runners I had the full experience shades of Central Park in New York.


After a delicious breakfast (wonderful Mediterranean melons) we headed off to see the Spanish king. Sadly he was otherwise indisposed, fortunately this meant we joined a really interesting guided tour of the 3,418 room Royal Palace now used for state occasions. The palace's 9 floors are closed when the family are present. Respecting the privacy of the royal family photography is not allowed. The highly ornate state rooms were renovated after Spain's two failed attempts at republicanism. They are bedecked with elaborate clocks, exquisite tapestries, hand painted ceilings, beautifully carved, embroidered furniture including marble tables constructed from minute mosaic inlay and a huge flower laden banqueting table set for dinner. We even saw the crown and sceptre; symbolic only; not worn by the king. The palace certainly put Buckingham palace to shame!


We then crossed the terraced plaza to visit the Almudena Cathedral. Built at a similar time to the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona the modern cathedral is a stark contrast to Gaudi's design.


In search of sustenance we just had to sample the churros and chocolate at San Ginés the oldest chocolatería in Madrid; the best in the world! Certainly the best I've ever tasted.


Emerging from the café tucked away in a side street we entered the Plaza Mayor for the second time, thankfully the delivery vans now dispersed. We then followed the piano trail "Madrid se llena de pianos"; grand pianos installed throughout for the public to play for the day!


Eventually we reached the Botanical Gardens. They cultivated one of every plant and tree, including vegetables, tropical green houses culminating in a terraced Bonsai trail overlooking the garden and ponds.


Realising we were near Ritero park I showed Simon the fallen angel fountain. Fancying rowing a barco on the grand pond, we turned back exploring further, passing water wheels, canals, pretty ponds even a Crystal Palace inspired by London's. The nuria, spanish water wheel, were originally powered by animals to draw irrigation water for the canals servicing the park. Unfortunately most of Madrid had the same boating idea; the barco queue long and slow! So buffet tea treats, and a snooze (for some) plus ankle rest at the hotel won! Maybe tomorrow?


Later we dined outside serenaded by the last public piano player, warmed by a flaming heater as the sun set.


Early morning run to Retiro park

(Google assisted run to the park; Fallen angel fountain)


The Royal Palace official state residence of King Felipe VI, QueennLetizis, Leonor Princess of Asturias and Infanta Sofia.

(Royal palace gates; Inside royal palace on the terrace; Old royal crest tapestry; Current crest Order of the Golden Fleece; views from terrace overlooking gardens & hunting lodge; hyper real portrait of royal family before Filipe became king)


The Almudena Cathedral

(Arches; sunlight through modern stained glass windows; Nave)


San Ginés chocolatería & Plaza Mayor

(outside oldest chocolatería; photos of the famous inc royals; best ever churros; Plaza mayor; Plaza Mayor + delivery vans)


Botanical Gardens plus Pianos

(Dahlias botanical gardens; Terrace with bonsai trees; Madrid se llena de pianos; Bonsai tree)


Retiro Park again

(Retiro park an entrance; Crystal Palace; Nuria water wheel; pretty pond)


Madrid

(Our meandering route; Neptune's fountain & iconic Madrid taxi)


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