Awake far too early, I caught up on the blog. Looking to stave off that particular headache and nausea associated with jetlag I fancied a run along the beach! Well, I ran along the busy highway sandwiched between the sea and the city walls to the downtown marina; along with commuters and alternative sleepers! It was hot and humid (balmy it turned out compared to later!)
After breakfasting on arepas; Columbia's lovely speciality cornflour pasties, we had a tour of historic old Cartegena. It was my highlight of Cartegena!
Formed from 3 three islands the Spanish established a strategic, defensible, trading, safe harbour vital to their 15-17th century empire! The unique topography of the bay, meant they could trade; safely store and transport thier wealth (all that silver and slaves) accessing shipping routes in both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.
The old city today, restored from 1990s onwards with an influx of UNESCO world heritage funds, is full of architectural clues to its famous past. Most are now hotels, university or government facilities.
Wealthy merchants resided upstairs, with balconies above mezzanine warehouse storage and lower trading space. (Heritage of our hotel) On their large central front doors the door knocker size and shape indicated their trade and the number of studs their wealth in slaves! A sea trader had large sea creatures, a priest a small hand! Second home owners had single story holiday houses with no balcony and off centre front doors whilst the upwardly mobile converted theirs to resemble the merchants! They all had domed brick water storage tanks in their central courtyards as with no river, water was scare!
The church, convents and Jesuit's had massive elaborate coutyarded buildings and cathedrals! The Jesuit's were located close to the wealthy slave trade in plaza de la Aduana (custom square) where the slaves were bought and sold.
There was a window conveniently at carriage height were citizens could post their concerns for investigation during the height of the Spanish Inquisition. Only 800 jews and non-catholics, believed guilty of crimes or black magic were publicly executed, many many less than other Spanish colonies.
We also saw the tomb of the famous Columbian writer Gabriel García Márquez who died in 2014.
Heads buzzing with so much historic geopolitics we recovered with a swim and a very English cup of tea! After which we strolled along the city walls before descending to the decidedly not peaceful plaza de La Paz, dodging rising tidal floods - shades of Venice! Passing more modern buildings we made our way to the Colombian speciality restaurant for dinner. Simon didn't get the no sandals memo, so had to use pop socks and borrowed shoes! The delicious sea food a great compensation, whilst the live entertainment was interesting!
Morning run along the coast road in Cartegena
(Route; Marina Cartegena)
Cartegena historic old town tour
Original houses
(Original second home; original merchants house; wealthy merchant sea traders door knocker; Wealthy clergymans door with hand knocker and evidence of slaves!; upgraded second home!)
Institutes writers & plazas
(customs square slave trading place; nearby Jesuit's church; Spanish Inquisition concerned citizen post box; cathedral with raised frescoes; Gabriel García Márquez bust; remains with his wife built over water tank; his famous books)
Walking Cartegena old walls early evening
(Portico in city wall; walking wall near hotel; view of Bocagrande and high rise; tourist ship Marina)
Dinner:
(Colombian seafood; Cervice traditional; Cervice vegan!)
We stayed at Ananda boutique hotel inside the old town Cartegena de Indias.
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