Simon is a saint! After trying his patience over packing, I woke him with severe cramps and continuous shivering! Finally after he massaged my calf's, administered sis tablets and sent me for a hot shower, I experienced relief!
Catching the hotel shuttle to the adjacent airport, chaos reigned in the waiting room. Us foreigners tried to board the wrong flight, misunderstood the rapidly spoken announcement only to realise the 'gate' was actually a port to a corridor leading to several planes! Delayed, we boarded a tiny propeller plane. Great panoramic views of the area, before we landed on a tiny run way at the edge of the park.
Met by our guide we were chauffeured in a TikTok to register at the park headquarters receiving two mandatory wrist bands, plus one confusing rapid Spanish introduction explaining the park rules. Basically we must respect nature, no chemicals, no sunscreens, no rubbish, have a guide, stay on the paths! Realising we didn't get the cash and water bottle memo, we bought extra bottles and visited the cash point.
After hastily stuffing water and swim things into bags we enjoyed a guided canoe safari ride on the guaviare river to the Mirador bar, spotting herons, vultures and turtles surrounded by yellow butterflies. We also were stoped by the river militia confirming we were indeed tourists. Needing the loo, I wasn't prepared for flushing using a bowl of water snaffled from the pet catfish's tank!
We strolled off for our billed short walk to a panoramic view point. It was a real hike, strenuous in the heat! Climbing up through the forest, thankfully somewhat shady, to see the wonderful panoramic view of the river. pausing for a drink our guide showed us an ancient indigenous rock painting. Along the way a welcome breeze occasionally pierced the heat as we traversed across the granite plateau, winding our way to reach the Caño Cristalitos. Simon's Christmas walking poles put to the test! Here we saw the unique famous Macarenia clavigera, that gives Caño Cristales rivers its pink (and other) colours, for the first time. It thrived only here attached to the granite rock under the fast flowing river. It took us best part of 3 hours; it was 32-35'C and extremely humid; sweaty and energy zapping! It was amazing, I really enjoyed the walk.
Our guide suggested a welcome swim back at the shady Mirador bar, swimming pool made by damming the adjacent creek; so good to be cool! After which another canoe ride and we finally arrived at the eco-friendly lodge. Our guide now very concerned we hadn't had lunch so we dutifully shared a box. Tasty, but too much too late in the heat. I gave mine to the boat captain.
Revived after a great but bracing shower, we had a lovely dinner. The food is excellent, just too much! I really amused the staff with my lack of Spanish and unique ways! Exhausted, safe under the mosquito net, heat aside we crashed! It was a very long day.
Flight to La Macarena
(Bogotá airport; view from plane window; view from plane window; field just before La Macarena; disembarking at La Macarena airport; using cash machine in La Macarena!)
River canoe ride to start of walk
( canoe; River police; heron; iguana; turtles; cattle transport!)
Walk to canyo crystolitos
(Magic eucalyptus healing potion; guaviare river; indigenous rock painting; walking across savannah; guaviare river lodge LHS opposite sand bank; guaviare river)
Macarenia clavigera in Caño Cristales
Route
Coca bush
Cooling off in the Mirador's river pool.
(Bar river pool;swimming in bar river pool)
The lodge
(The cold shower, our room, viewing platform)
We stayed at La Manigua Lodge in La Macarena national park.
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