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  • Writer's picturePaula Cooper

28 Sept 2023 La Macarena, Caño Cristales: Colourful Cinematic Cool

Updated: Oct 1, 2023

Breakfast was delicious, fruit, scrambled eggs and arepas (pancake style) accompanied by a mystery not quite orange juice. Turned out to be tomato de árboles tomato tree fruit! Which isn't a tomato at all but a tamarillo.


Meeting our guide we took the canoe to the bank where we boarded a short safari in to the caño cristales National park. Only 75 tourists apparently are allowed on the trail in one day, numbers are heavily monitored and restricted throughout the path. You had to pay for the loo! I guess we are paying to keep unique environment for the fire.


After registering we crossed the savannah to reach the caño cristales river. Walking across granite through low level shrubs, similar to the forest yesterday. The river alone is beautiful, the fast flowing water carving cauldrons and pools, narrowing to eddys or dramatic waterfalls. Really beautiful.

Depending on the light, the plant varies from green to bright pink via shades of brownish purple. Fed by the minerals in the water it roots in the underwater granite crevices. Patches vary from a few fonds to swathes of plants carpeting the river bed. Up close it resembles a tree or a beautiful flower. It's soft to touch, only permitted in the direction of flow! The plant is unique. This ecotourism only started recently and is highly controlled.


Following the river stopping to take photos or drink, I realised if I dunked my hat and neckchief I'd be much cooler!


Reaching a small cataract along with many fellow tourists we greatfully swam. Modesty abandoned I stripped to sports bra and pants. Somewhere over the years I've lost the ability to gracefully dress! Deliciously cool and so picturesque.


More beauty lead to a small farm. Sharing a shady seated bar area drinking cold water, we opened our enormous lunch, too much food we had to just throw, there was no one to hand it to! No wonder it was so heavy. I hope some pigs or chicken enjoyed it. It didn't sit well. Happy to pay for the loo though especially as it was another bucket job and we shared the hand washing tub with a lady doing her laundry.


Emerging back at the river to see the most famous section. Centuries of water carving channels, cauldrons and cascades even a mini niagara falls! All carpeted with pinks and green foliage highlighting the yellow sandy bottoms and blue mineral water. Then a huge deep natural swimming pool emerged as we past the waterfall, complete with life guards. Very attentive competent ones; a gentleman slipped falling in, they both dove in a flash, yanking him up to rest on a life preserving woggle! Of course we swam, I even managed a few laps. Whilst busy it wasn't crowded, definitely one of the best open water spots I've been to. Or maybe I was just hot!


We returned to check out of the park. Appreciating the jeep ac and the breeze on returning to the lodge. A lovely catch up via dodgy wifi with our youngest before being told we had a mystery cultural event in 30mins! Dashing through the shower there was a knock on the door. In my worst panicked Spanish I tried to explain I was indecent in the shower!


On returning to the bar area, after delicious chili tomato jam and banana chips we were serenaded on a sunset canoe safari. In reality the same canoe with another couple (Australian checking the lodge out for their travel business) up river, to then drift down river whilst a gentleman played the Columbian guitar singing his own compositions inspired by the area, river, caño cristales, rubbish? Remember my limited language capability! Weather threatened, so he demanded our return. It was fun and funny!


Dinner lovely again, less hot but just as tired we went to bed early. Whilst some snored others wrestled with wifi and blogged!


Travel to Caño Cristales park entrance

(Safari ride in jeep; Military check point in the park)


Walk to first sighting of Caño Cristalitos famous Macareniae clavigera.

( on path; caño cristales; first stretch; Macarenia clavigera; Macarenia clavigera upclose)

Crossing savannah

Hi(Toxic caterpillar; Savannah, Google translate consultation; leaf cutter ants;

Walking across savannah)


More sightings of river's unique characteristics and colour created by the plants: too many photos !!!


Caño Cristales most famous stretch of river

Swimming in first pool

Swimming in famous pool


Cultural attraction: sunset river cruise

( on canoe; Colombian singer; sun setting)


We stayed at La Manigua Lodge in La Macarena national park.

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