Forcing my eyes open, l hopped in the shower, gathered my washing, opting stupidly (as they are still not dry) to hand wash my smalls. Turns out it's washing/kilo and not an extortionate price/item so could have farmed out that chore after all. Oh well!
Incidentals accounted for we headed for coffee and breakfast. More unusual fruits, lovely cheeses, biscuits and a fruit and walnut cake celebrating Jesus. It's possible my Spanish translation may have misinterpreted something!
We met our guide for a whistle stop tour of Lima's historic old town, San Francisco Convent, and main square. Followed by a food market in Miraflores and a return to our hotel in Barranco district. Lima is huge so we were chauffeured for part. Super interesting, learning from Quito I took notes! Question is can I understand them!
Lima has had a history of invasion! Originally the caral, indigenous Andean peoples settled around 3,000BC; then the Icas invaded around 1400BC; next came 180 or so Spanish, after they'd defeated the Incan empire in Cuzco, in 1532, decimating the population, not so much with their fire power as the devestating diseases they introduced. The city survived the Spanish Inquisition from 1569-1820 mainly interrogating people who disagreed with their catholic ways; fortunately most native populations were spared. By this point embroiled in the war for independence the Spanish ceded their empire in 1826, when Peru became a republic; Simon Bolivar et al involved. The indigenous people suffered in the new republic, loosing much valued lands.
The ethnic heritage is indigenous Andean, mixed with Chinese and Japanese who came as paid labour, slaves from Africa, and the Spanish obviously. Slavery ended in 1865.
Much architecture in the old city we saw, hails from Spain, we saw the same balconies, doors & courtyards as in Cartegena. Spanish and French styles influenced the majority of public buildings, churches, including the San Francisco convent, cathedral, and catacombs. The oldest in S America this is where they keep the skulls, and bones of their ancestors.
Just as we emerged from peeking at mass in the just amazing ornate guilded frescoed San Francisco cathedral, and wandering through the rather gruesome ossery in the convent catacombs we heard music. Spilling into the streets after mass were musicians, drummers and dancers, all bedecked in colourful costumes and traditional dress. An intoxicating blend of Catholic and Andean spiritual beliefs, culture and tradition; an integral part of Peruvian society apparently. Celebrating the virgin of Natividad with songs in indigenous languages, the festivities continued with a procession; her image being paraded through the city and around the main parliament square, accompanied by the dancers and musicians. The dancers swept me up corralling me and other ladies, quite unexpectedly! These masked dancers appeared to be mocking the Spanish!
We followed the whirling colourful dancers into the main square. Quite something, with the back drop of the main cathedral, bishops palace, parliament buildings, and presidential palace. This square is the birth place of Lima. So we took some photos by the signs, one of them in flowers.
Subsequent road closures meant a slow journey to the main market in miraflores. What a delight! So many spices, grains, fruits, potatoes, teas, animal parts, fish. So much we'd never seen or heard of before! We shared a lovely Chirimoya creamy juice and tried exotic fruits Grenadia, Tuna green and yellow, Chirimoya and a Melon thing pepino I think? (Notes not quite so good after all) Our guide frequented the market and was full of knowledge and wisdom.
Afterwards we had Sunday lunch - Cerviche; well I had mushrooms and Simon sampled traditional Peruvian cerbiche, thumbs up, a octopus dish, thumbs down, a crab mousse between potatoes, thumbs up and a selection of scampi style, chicken, prawns and other fish, thumbs sideways! Washed down with a black corn & blackberry drink; good for youthfulness! There was enough food for an army so we made sure our guide took a doggy bag! Thanking her for an interesting morning she dropped us at our hotel.
After coffee and the rest of our Ecuadorean chocolate, plus a snooze (for me) we strolled down to the beach. It was absolutely mobbed! We walked along the board walk, over the bridge of sighs, down to a marina and back, through a constant stream of people, all of Lima. Yep, I paddled in the waves across the dark volcanic sand. Sadly we only had about two seconds of sunshine. The San Francisco style mist still hanging about.
Today being also a public holiday to commemorate a naval battle with Chile in 1879. General Grau, a Peruvian hero, was killed, and so Peru was subsequently defeated in the battle of Angamos, fighting over the atácame desert and mineral rites! Who are we to argue when we celebrate NOT blowing up the Houses of Parliament! Explains why so many people were out and about.
We also saw high school graduates celebrating, complete with mortar boards and catholics newly confirmed, all clad in white. Seemed like everyone was celebrating today.
Back at the hotel, sitting in the roof top bar, I sampled a Peruvian white Sauvignon Blanc (tastes like a Chilean one) and Simon a pisco sour plus the captain. Both lovely apparently (my private verdict not printable). We also had bruschetta and desert Peruvian style. Alfajores, caramel cookies to be highly recommended. Mum rico! The misty gloom persisted and swallowed the famed sunset; blankets and space heaters very much appreciated.
Packing again! We have to separate our luggage into a 10kg bag to take to the jungle leaving the rest to collect on our return.
Am I ready .... well not exactly, but we don't leave until 8:20am tomorrow.
Lima's historic old city & Convent of San Francisco
(Balconies; less ornate/plainer older they are; bones in catacombs & library of San Francisco; old post office letter box; slave door; city defence door and carvings)
Festival procession for the Virgin de Natividad, musicians and dancers
(Musicians & dancers; Me captured in the dance; sign virgen de Natividad; a shrine; mayordomos; musicians & dancers)
Main Square; birth place of Lima
Market Miraflores
(Grains; Pork scratchings; Chirimoya fruit & juice)
Cirviche & health juice
Walk to bridge of sighs, and the beach
(Simon on bridge of Sighs; opposite bridge; storm/earthquake/tsunami damage?; tsunami warning; beach; paraglider; paddling; views along the coast both ways)
Sunset before the mist descended again
(Pisco sour)
Video to follow if technology back home allows.
We stayed at Casa Republica Lima Peru
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