Paula Cooper
- Nov 12, 2023
- 3 min read

9 November Buenos Aires, Argentina: Interesting Intellectual Idiosyncratic Idealogical Iconic

So civilised to have a leisurely breakfast; shame I continue to wake at the crack of dawn! I am a fan of Argentine croissant, and Argentine cheese cake; both versions that went wrong and became iconic!

Our city tour started on the edge of Palermo visiting European influenced mansions, where the elite chose to live escaping bustling downtown Buenos Aires. Realising the real estate value, some sold building less elaborate versions nearby; now embassies, and the haunts of football players and ahmm politicians!

Really interesting hearing about Buenos Aires from a local, explanations intertwined with major sights; the cities many facets, history and political influences, so much to grasp.

Next we visited the cemetery, yep the major attraction. The recolecta monks’ orchard becoming the first public cemetery in 1822. Cementerio de Recoleta, an exquisite necropolis, home to more than 6,400 tombs, mausoleums, and monuments laid out in formal tree-lined avenues, including the grave of Evita, Eva Perón. Although she died of cancer in 1952, her body wasn’t interred in the Duarte family mausoleum for 20 years; Eva an unofficial leader, revered by the less well off; helping woman’s suffrage and beneficial reforms.

Other highlights being David Alleno after saving for 30 years he is said to be heard jangling his keys and the statue of Liliana Crociati with her beloved dog, who died on her honeymoon in Austria in ‘70s.

Always receptive to immigration the cities architecture reflects the early European influence, later unrest and poor living/working conditions lead to army take overs dictatorships including Perón’s 3 stints in power. The wide avenues were constructed during those years. Sadly the Spanish annihilated both the slaves and indigenous peoples through disease, mercury and silver mining.

Next stop downtown Plaza de Mayo named May 25, 1810 after the Argentine revolution for independence from the Spanish, led by San Martín with the site of the seat of power, Casa Rosa (the pink presidential palace) many regime changes and protests; including currently by the indigenous Andean communities banding together. The Madres de la Plaza de Mayo in 1977 demanded information about their missing children, the disappeared, during the last military dictatorship.

We also saw the metropolitan cathedral, where the current pope first presided, and the guarded mausoleum of San Martín; along with a gazillion Argentine school parties, a must apparently! The nearby financial district in contrast modern; including on the second attempt cash!

Fun to wander through La boca (Italian) with many murals, quaint bars and the famous caminito, before seeing the old riverside at puerto Madero, a just crazy restaurant filled with antiques including cars before being dropped at a huge shopping centre for lunch; complete miss-understanding on our part as to food!

Empanadas consumed in the wonderful sunshine; such a nice day. Wandering through the shopping district and office lined avenues we passed the yellow (possibly defunct?) health stations created to encourage the young to exercise aiming for diabetes and obesity prevention and the 2002 giant moving animatronic silver flower Floralis Genérica, before reaching our recommended destination the beautiful blooming rose garden; such a treat in the sun. Of course I wangled a ride on a pedalo!

Back at the hotel for a quick nap before the late night tango dinner show at El Querandi. Much better than expected, treated to good food whilst entertained with excellent musicians, (quartet of piano, double bass, bandoneon and violin) singers and talented tango dancers explaining the rise of the tango from popularity amongst immigrants at the turn 19th/20th centuries through raunchy frowned upon sensuality to respectability and world heritage status; not forgetting strictly!

Enjoyable, but very late with all these early starts!

Mansions